Lettuce
(50 days) Open-pollinated. Summer lettuce aficionados can rejoice that we again have a fresh crop of organic seed for Sierra, a... read more
(62 days) Open-pollinated. You don’t have to free climb a 3000' rock face to find fulfillment. Simply tuck into big bowl of torn... read more
(45 days) Open-pollinated. Burpee’s well-known variety, a cross between a compact butterhead type and large looseleaf varieties was... read more
(30 days baby, 45 days mature) Open-pollinated. This often imitated but never matched classic miniature oakleaf remains an industry... read more
(60 days) Open-pollinated. A really superior romaine lettuce from breeder Frank Morton. When it romaines, it sends up gorgeous... read more
(70 days) Open-pollinated. Also known as Erthel. Named for its ruffled mint-leaf appearance, not for any minty flavor. Good size,... read more
(50 days) Open-pollinated. True to name, mini-romaine Jadeite’s matte apple-green rounded leaf and graceful small vase form looks... read more
(65 days) Open-pollinated. One manifestation of climate change in New England seems to be increasingly hot dry springs and early... read more
(45 days) Open-pollinated. An ancient form of native Egyptian celtuce that is customarily allowed to bolt and enjoyed for its... read more
Lettuce
- 700–1100 seeds/g.
- Days to maturity are from emergence after direct sowing; for transplants, subtract 20 days.
Culture: Direct seed outdoors as soon as ground can be worked and repeat every 2 weeks for continuous supply. Or start indoors in March and at regular intervals thereafter for early transplanted successions. Optimal germination temperature range 40–70° though many varieties won’t germinate in soil temps above 75° and most shut down above 80°. Thin sowings frequently and ruthlessly to a final distance of 1' for full heads. Heavy nitrogen feeders.
Hardy. All save icebergs tolerate heavy frost. Fall and overwintered harvests are becoming standard practice. For summer harvest, select varieties carefully: bolting, bottom rot and tipburn are problems if a variety can’t take the heat! Using shade cloth can keep lettuce tender and sweet longer into summer. Sesquiterpene lactones produced in the latex render lettuce bitter when it bolts.
Saving Seed: Saving lettuce seed is easy! Leave spring-planted lettuce heads to bolt. Flowers will become white tufted seeds. Once dry on stalk, rub seeds off the plant into a paper bag. To ensure true-to-type seed, separate lettuce varieties by 10 feet.
Diseases:
- BOR: Bottom Rot
- DM: Downy Mildew
- LMV: Lettuce Mosaic Virus
- PM: Powdery Mildew
- SC: Sclerotinia
- TB: Tipburn
- X: Xanthemonas
Pest: Aster Leafhopper (vector for Aster Yellows disease)
Cultural controls: control perennial broadleaf weeds near lettuce plantings, plow lettuce fields immediately after harvest.
Pest: Slug
Cultural controls: avoid mulch or nearby grassy areas.
Material: Sluggo
Disease: Bottom Rot
Cultural controls: rotate with grass-family green manures, plant in well-drained soil or on raised beds, more upright varieties escape infection.
Major Diseases: Downy Mildew, Grey Mold, White Mold
Cultural controls: rotation, reduce duration of leaf wetness, plant parallel to prevailing winds, use wide spacing, control weeds, use well-drained fields in spring and fall.
Material controls: MilStop