Winner Kohlrabi

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Winner Kohlrabi

Brassica oleracea (gongylodes group)
(45 days) F-1 hybrid. Longtime customer Brian Cramer of Hutchins Farm in Concord, Mass., convinced CR to grow kohlrabi again for the first time in fifteen years. “Winner,” Cramer said, “has been my most successful kohlrabi for many years, always beating out others I have tried in consistency, quality and appearance.” CR grew Winner in 2012 and it proved to be everything Cramer said. Direct-seeded in late June into a severe drought, irrigated sparingly, thinned belatedly, it even survived his two-week midsummer absence and nevertheless produced its lovely green stem bulb three weeks ahead of Early White Vienna. Its tender sweet flavor was a revelation. Perhaps you, too, have overlooked this unusual under-rated vegetable, or maybe you were just waiting for us to offer a real Winner? Tested negative for BR and BL.


3473 Winner
Item Discounted
Price
A: 0.5g for $3.25  
B: 1g for $4.75  
C: 4g for $12.00  
D: 14g for $35.00  
E: 28g for $60.00  
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Additional Information

Kohlrabi

About 100-300 seeds/g.

Don’t like kohlrabi? Try harvesting it young. Its texture turns tough, woody and inedible if you wait too long. Use wire hoops and row cover to keep flea beetles out.

Brassicas

Days to maturity are from seedling emergence. Subtract 20 days for transplants.

Note: because of a rule issued by Oregon, we cannot ship brassica packets larger than ½ oz. (14 grams) into the Willamette Valley, except those that have tested negative for Black Leg and Black Rot. Check descriptions for information.

Culture: Start brassicas indoors March-May for setting out May-July, or direct-seed in May, or in June for fall crop. Minimum germination soil temperature 40°, optimal range 55–95°. They need 60s during seedling stage for optimal growth; higher temperatures make seedlings leggy. Easier grown for the fall because many varieties perform poorly in hot summers. For better stands in dry conditions, sow in trenches and keep irrigated. Wire hoops and row cover should be used at early stages to keep out flea beetles and swede midge.

Diseases:

  • BL: Blackleg
  • BR: Black Rot
  • BS: Bacterial Speck
  • DM: Downy Mildew
  • FW: Fusarium Wilt
  • FY: Fusarium Yellows
  • TB: Tipburn
  • WR: White Rust

Pest and Disease Remedies for all Brassicas

Major pests: Cabbage Looper, Diamondback Moth, Imported Cabbageworm
Cultural controls: control cabbage-family weeds near crop fields, till under crop debris of early-season brassicas after harvest.
Material controls: Spinosad, Bt.

Pest: Flea Beetle
Cultural controls: floating row covers, mulch with straw, time plantings for fall harvested crops only, crop rotation, perimeter trap cropping.
Material controls: AzaMax, Spinosad, PyGanic.

Pest: Cabbage Root Maggot
Cultural controls: time planting to avoid first hatching, use row covers, control weeds.

Major diseases: Black Rot, Alternaria Leaf Spot, Blackleg, Club Root, Downy Mildew, White Mold
Cultural controls: avoid transplanting plants with yellow leaves or v-shaped lesions, crop rotation, destroy crop debris after harvest, avoid overhead irrigation, control weeds, allow for good air movement.
Material controls: Copper.

Swede Midge—not as cute as it sounds!

Alert! Heading brassicas in the Northeast are seeing consistent damage from swede midge, a tiny gall midge. Its effects result in a non-heading plant. Wire hoops and row cover at early stages of heading brassica crops are becoming crucial for success. Some research also suggests garlic sprays as a possible organic repellent. Consult your Cooperative Extension resources for further information.

Germination Testing

For the latest results of our germination tests, please see the germination page.