Speedia Brussels Sprouts


Speedia Brussels Sprouts

(98 days) F-1 hybrid. Our 2016 brussels sprouts trial had us angling away from Hestia toward Speedia. Its vigorous and extra sturdy 30–36" stalks never tilted, its large to very large sprouts were bountiful and tasty, and its more open foliage resulted in much less gross aphid rampage. We’ve trialed Speedia every season since and are fully convinced that it’s a superior variety for easy and bold-sized sprouts, unseating Hestia in the early “half tall” brussels niche. And as the fall aphid problem in brassicas has worsened for many of us, compact Speedia has continued to be a very low-presence variety. High resistance to FY. Tested negative for BR and BL. NEW!

3335 Speedia
Item Discounted
A: 0.25g for $4.20  
B: 0.5g for $6.50  
C: 1g for $11.00  
D: 4g for $32.00  
E: 16g for $120.00   ($114.00)
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Additional Information

Brussels Sprouts

Brassica oleracea (gemmifera group)

~5,000 seeds/oz; 175 seeds/g.

Culture: Fussy like cauliflower and requires a long season. Start indoors no later than early April and transplant into very fertile soil. Around Sept 1, top the plants. When I experimented by topping some and leaving others, the difference was dramatic. Within two weeks the topped plants were putting all their energy into making sprouts while the untopped plants continued to shoot up more foliage and made only miniscule sprouts. Very hardy, improved by frost and can be harvested past the first snowfall.


Days to maturity are from direct seeding. Subtract 20 days from date of transplanting.

Note: We cannot ship packets greater than ½ oz. (14 grams) of any Brassica into the Willamette Valley. The State of Oregon prohibits shipping any commercial quantity of untreated Brassica, Raphanus or Sinapis because of a quarantine to control Blackleg.

Culture: Hardy. Require warm temperatures to germinate (68-86° ideal) but need 60s during seedling stage for optimal growth; higher temperatures make seedlings leggy. Heavy feeders; for best growth, need regular moisture and 2–3' spacing. Have done well for us succeeding onions and garlic in beds. Cauliflower and broccoli are damaged by hard frosts, especially in spring.

Young broccoli sproutlings make good microgreens.


  • BR: Black Rot
  • BS: Bacterial Speck
  • DM: Downy Mildew
  • FY: Fusarium Yellows
  • TB: Tipburn
  • WR: White Rust

Pests & diseases: Major pests: Cabbage Looper, Diamondback Moth, Imported Cabbageworm
Cultural controls: control cabbage-family weeds near crop fields, till under crop debris of early-season brassicas after harvest.
Materials: Spinosad, Bt.

Pest: Flea Beetle
Cultural controls: floating row covers, mulch with straw, time plantings for fall harvested crops only, crop rotation, perimeter trap cropping.
Materials: Spinosad, PyGanic.

Pest: Cabbage Root Maggot
Cultural controls: time planting to avoid first hatching, use row covers, control weeds.

Major diseases: Black Rot, Alternaria Leaf Spot, Blackleg, Club Root, Downy Milldew, White Mold
Cultural controls: avoid transplanting plants with yellow leaves or v-shaped lesions, crop rotation, destroy crop debris after harvest, avoid overhead irrigation, control weeds, allow for good air movement.
Materials: Actinovate, copper compounds may help for some of these diseases.