Steph Kuri Kabocha

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Steph Kuri Kabocha

Cucurbita maxima
(90 days) F-1 hybrid. Let’s talk Organic Breeding for a moment. According to Marcel Van Diemen, the breeder of this hybrid red kuri, the goal is “to select varieties that have high nitrogen efficiency–in other words, the more vigorous varieties. Vigor and high resilience under difficult conditions are very important for organic crops... broad disease tolerance is extremely valuable in organic cultivation.” Need Proof of Concept? In Fedco’s two seasons trialing Steph, 2019 & 2020, we saw both ends of the poor conditions spectrum: cool and rainy to excessive drought and heat. Serious tests, but Steph’s vining plants each set and ripened 6-8 uniform deep red-orange, teardrop shaped fruits of 2-4 lb personal size; the highest number and volume harvest out of any maxima winter squash we offer! Regardless of growing conditions, Steph’s rich flavor and texture stayed balanced between the prized dryness of kabocha and a superb smooth and nutty buttery sweetness. And, Steph kept thru the winter as well or better than any squash we carry. Resilient, stunning, delicious, and dependable in storage. Much like the All-Star, Championship winning pro basketball player, Steph Kuri is real game-changer! A brand new introduction from Vitalis Organic Seeds. High Tolerance to PM. NEW!


1627 Steph Kuri
Item Discounted
Price
A: 1/8oz for $8.00  
B: 1/4oz for $12.00  
C: 1/2oz for $22.00  
D: 1oz for $38.00  
E: 4oz for $135.00   ($128.25)
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Additional Information

Cucurbita maxima

Green in stems signifies immature fruit. Fat round stems turn corky and woody when the squash is ripe. Fruits tend to be medium to large and often have bumpy surfaces and button-ends. See also large pumpkins: Lumina, Jarrahdale, Rouge Vif d’Etampes and Big Max.

Winter Squash

  • All open-pollinated except where noted.
  • Days to maturity are from direct seeding; subtract 20 days for transplants.

Culture: May be direct-seeded or transplanted. Minimum germination temperature 60°, optimal temperature range 70–90°. Direct seeding: Sow 4–5 seeds per hill when weather has warmed after danger of frost. Allow 4–6' between hills. Thin to 3 best plants. Transplanting: Start indoors three weeks before setting out. Do not disturb the roots. Transplant bush varieties 18" apart, vining varieties 30" apart. For either method, use wire hoops and row covers to hasten maturity and reduce insect damage. Tender, not frost hardy. Heavy nitrogen feeders. Excessive heat and/or drought can prevent blossom set, reduce yields. Winter squash can take one or two light frosts on the vine. To improve flavor and storage, field cure for at least 10 days after harvest, covering if hard frost threatens. Store under proper conditions, at least 50° and 60–70% relative humidity in a place with good air circulation. Do not pile up squash. Inspect periodically and be sure to use damaged, stemless or small fruit first. Acorns have the shortest storage time before getting stringy, followed by delicatas, buttercup/kabochas.

Saving Seed: Saving squash seed is challenging! We list three species of the genus Cucurbita: C. pepo, C. maxima and C. moschata. Varieties of the same species will cross readily, but crossing will not occur between the different species. You must isolate varieties of the same species by half a mile if you want true-to-type seed. This is difficult for most gardeners—you may have to communicate and collaborate with neighboring gardeners, or exclude insects from blossoms and hand-pollinate. If you can pull off the variety isolation, processing the seeds is easy: rinse seeds from the guts of fully ripe and cured squash. Dry and store.

Diseases: BR: Black Rot, PM: Powdery Mildew

Pest: Striped Cucumber Beetle
Cultural controls: use tolerant or resistant varieties, rotate crops, till under crop debris soon after harvest, use floating row covers until flowers appear, use plastic mulch, perimeter trap cropping (Black Zucchini and Blue Hubbard make particularly good trap crops), use yellow sticky strips, hand-pick early morning when beetles are very sluggish.
Materials: Surround, Pyrethrum (PyGanic).

Pest: Squash Bug
Cultural controls: rotation, till in cucurbit debris before winter and plant a cover crop, boards on soil surface near squash will attract bugs overnight which can be killed, avoid mulching. Squash bugs lay their brown-brick red egg clusters on the underside of the foliage, often next to the central vein—destroy egg clusters on undersides of leaves.
Materials: Pyrethrum on young nymphs, AzaMax.

Pest: Squash Vine Borer
Cultural controls: butternut squash is resistant, maximas & pepos susceptible; rotation, plow in squash vine debris soon after harvest, use floating row covers, watch for wilting plant parts and destroy borer within.

Disease: Powdery Mildew
Controls: Use small plots to slow spread, plant indeterminate (viney) varieties, control weed competition.
Materials: sulfur and whole milk, mineral or other oils in combination with potassium bicarbonate, Actinovate.

Disease: Bacterial Wilt
Cultural control: Striped Cucumber Beetle is vector—control it; choose resistant varieties.

Germination Testing

For the latest results of our germination tests, please see the germination page.